How a replacement
Heating & Air Conditioning System should be Sized
Table Of
Contents
Why You need your
equipment sized properly.
Older space conditioning systems (more
than 10 years old) are often unreliable and much less efficient than a
modern system. When it's time for a new replacement, choosing one of the
correct size (heating and/or cooling output) is critical to getting
the best efficiency, comfort, and lowest maintenance and operating costs
over the life of the new system. Some national surveys have determined that
well over half of all HVAC contractors do not sizing heating and cooling
systems correctly.
The most common sizing mistake is in
over-sizing. This is not only makes the new system cost more to install, but
also forces it to operate inefficiently, break down more often, and cost
more to operate. Over-sized air conditioners (and heat pumps) do not
run long enough to dehumidify the air. This results in the "clammy" feeling
and unhealthy mold growth in many air conditioned houses. Over-sized heating
equipment often creates uncomfortable and large temperature swings in the
house.
It is the installer/contractor's job to
perform the correct sizing calculation for the building. However, many
poorly trained installers only check the "nameplate" (a metal tag that
tells you the Btu per hour, output among other things) of the existing
system and sell you one just like it, or even worse, one that's larger. This
is a not a correct sizing method and not in your best interests! Before the
era of tightly constructed homes, it was not uncommon to install furnaces
and air conditioners that had 2 to 4 times the needed capacity.
Also, since many people like to try to conserve fuel and make their homes
more comfortable by installing new windows, caulking, and weather-stripping,
and adding more insulation, going by the nameplate will most certainly
result in the wrong size being installed. Making improvements to the way the
house holds energy in allows you to install a smaller system while still
being comfortable, as well as saving large amounts of energy.
Correct sizing requires a great many more
items (i.e., level of insulation; size, type and location of windows; air
infiltration, how many people live there, the local climate, etc.) than
simply reading the nameplate of the existing unit.
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Correctly
Sizing Heating and Air Conditioning Systems
Building owners should insist upon a correct
system sizing calculation before signing a contract. This service is often
offered at little or no cost to homeowners by gas and electric utilities,
major heating equipment manufacturers, and conscientious heating and air
conditioning contractors. Manual J, published by the Air Conditioning
Contractors of America (ACCA), is the most common method in use. Many
user-friendly computer software packages or worksheets can simplify the
calculation procedure. You should make sure that the procedure used by the
contractor follows Manual J or one of the approved standards in the
Bibliography below.
Many factors effect a home's heating or
cooling load. A good estimator will measure walls, ceilings, floor space,
and windows for the accurate determination of room volumes. Also, a good
estimate takes into account the R-value of the home's insulation, windows,
and building materials. A close estimate of the building's air leakage is
necessary. A blower door test is the best way to measure air leakage.
A good estimate will also include an
inspection of the size, condition (how well joints are sealed and the ducts
are insulated), and location of the distribution ducts. The placement of
supply and return registers, should be appropriate for the system type and
size. The orientation of the house also effects heat gain and heat loss
through windows. Overhangs can reduce solar gain through windows. Make sure
the contractor uses the correct design outdoor temperature and humidity for
your area. Using a higher summer design temperature results in over-sizing
air conditioners. Underestimating the latent (humidity) load (energy
used by the air conditioner to remove moisture from the air) results in
undersized air conditioners.
Any bid should include an agreement to
provide written calculations (listing the procedures and standards that
will be followed), equipment and installation warranties, a payment
schedule, and a firm completion date. When the contractor is finished, get a
copy of their calculations, assumptions, and the computer output or finished
worksheet. This is your only proof that they did the job right.
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Quick -but
Inaccurate- Methods of Sizing a Replacement System
Here is a list of "quickie" methods some
contractors may use. They are also somewhat useful for a very rough idea as
to what you need to buy. NEVER use any of these to determine the final
size.
1.
The contractor walks in the house,
looks at the existing unit, and recommends that the replacement unit be the
same size, or larger. This obviously does not take into account any
improvements made to the house or mistakes made in sizing the original unit.
2.
The contractor asks you how many square
feet of living space there are in your house, then tells you what size unit
you need. This is called "sizing by square footage" and is the most commonly
used inaccurate method of sizing. A typical value used for air conditioners
is one ton (12,000 Btu/hour) per 500
square feet (46 m2). This does not take into account differences among house
orientation, design, construction, and energy efficiency or intended use
of the system.
3.
You may get different answers from
different contractors who use the previous technique. In that case, they may
have a different "rule of thumb," or one of them may be using the "lowest
cost" method. This involves adjusting the square footage rule so that
whatever the contractor has in their warehouse becomes the right size for
you. Since the "in-stock " unit costs the contractor (but not necessarily
you) less to install, this becomes the "lowest cost" method.
4.
Another poor method involves a
prepared chart such as the one below, which is for heating systems. You use
the chart in the following way. First, determine the floor area of all the
heated rooms, and the levels of insulation in the floors, walls, and
ceilings. Next, find the category (under description) that best
describes the home. Then, multiply both the upper and lower values for heat
loss in Btu per hour per square foot (from the table) by the floor
area of the home to roughly estimate the required heating range.
Home Type or Characteristics
..... Heat loss (Btu/hr/ft2)
1) No insulation in walls, ceilings, or
floors; no storm windows; windows and doors fit loosely.
.................................................
90 to 110
2) R-11 insulation in walls and ceilings; no insulation in floors over
crawl spaces; no storm windows; doors and windows fit fairly
tight.
....................................................
50 to 70
3) R-19 insulation in walls, R-30 in ceilings, and R-11 in floors;
tight-fitting storm windows or double pane windows. ..........
29 to 35
4) Super-insulated house with R-24 wall insulation, R-40 in ceilings, and
R-19 in floor; tight-fitting storm windows or double pane windows; vapor
barrier sealed during construction. .............
21 to 25
5) Earth-sheltered house with little exposure; well insulated.10
to 13
In the above example, if a home's
energy-saving features are best described by category 2, and the home has a
heated space of 1,500 square feet (139.35 m2), then the design heating load
is roughly 75,000 to 105,000 Btu/hour (18,900 to 26,460 kilocalories/hour)
(1,500 X 50 and 1,500 X 70).
Although a chart like this looks
official, not all houses fit the profile given. There is also no accounting
for the thermostat temperature setting, the location of the house, the shape
of the house, or many other factors.
To save some time the above methods are
often used for a first "guess" or rough estimate. If so, then it should be
plainly stated to you that this is the case. However,
DO NOT USE THESE ESTIMATES FOR THE FINAL
DETERMINATION!
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Bibliography
The following publications provide additional information about load
calculations and sizing heating or air conditioning systems. The
publications are based upon standards approved by professional
organizations. This bibliography was reviewed in December 1999
·
ANSI/AHAM RAC-1-1992, Room Air Conditioners, Association of Home Appliance
Manufacturers (AHAM), 1992. Available from AHAM, 20 North Wacker Drive,
Chicago, IL 60606, (312) 984-5800 x315. 25 pp., $7.50.
·
ASHRAE Standard 90.2-1993:
Energy Efficient Design of New Low-Rise Residential Buildings, American
Society of Heating, Refrigerating, and
Air-Conditioning Engineers, 1993. Available from ASHRAE (see Source List
below). 107 pp., $84.00.
·
Cooling and Heating Load
Calculation Manual, GRP 138, American Society of Heating, Refrigerating, and
Air-Conditioning Engineers, Inc., 1992. Available from ASHRAE (see Source
List below). 209 pp., $80.00.
·
Heat Loss Calculation Guide No.
H-22, (1st ed.), Hydronics Institute, 1989. Available from Hydronics
Institute, 35 Russo Place, P.O. Box 218, Berkeley Heights, NJ 07922, (908)
464-8200. 63 pp., $14.00 plus shipping.
·
Residential Duct Systems, Manual
D, (2nd ed.), Air Conditioning Contractors of America, 1995. Available from
ACCA (see Source List below). 200 p., $30.00
·
Residential Equipment Selection
Manual, Manual S, Air Conditioning Contractors of America, (2nd ed).
Available from ACCA (see Source List below). 115 pp., $40.00.
·
Residential Load Calculation,
Manual J, (7th ed.), Air Conditioning Contractors of America, 1988.
Available from ACCA (see Source List below).
126 pp., $30.00.
Source List
·
Air Conditioning Contractors of
America (ACCA)
1712 New Hampshire Avenue NW
Washington, DC 20009
Phone: (202) 483-9370 Email: webmastr@acca.org
World Wide Web: www.acca.org
·
American Society of Heating,
Refrigerating, and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE)
1791 Tullie Circle NE
Atlanta, GA 30329-2305
Phone: (800) 527-4723; Fax: (404) 321-5478
Email: ashrae@ashrae.org
World Wide Web: www.ashrae.org
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